Black and White Detail Check

Check whether your display shows the darkest and brightest shades or crushes them into flat black and white.

Go to test controls

This check opens a focused test surface. You can return with Escape. How accurate is this test?

Before you start

  • Use stable room lighting and your normal display mode.
  • Allow the display to warm up and avoid changing settings during the run.
Step-by-step instructions

How to run this check

  1. Start the Black and White Detail Check
  2. Choose a gradient pattern (Horizontal, Vertical, Diagonal, Split)
  3. Try to distinguish all brightness levels (1-5, 5-10, etc.)
  4. Record the darkest and brightest steps you can distinguish without changing settings
  5. Use a calibrated luminance meter when a numeric contrast value is required

Compare dark and bright steps, then record the first and last labels you can distinguish. Use the fine split patterns for a focused check; the other layouts are optional comparisons.

What losing step detail means

These authored examples deliberately change RGB codes in the page. They teach the difference between distinct inputs and merged outputs; they are not photographs or diagnoses of your screen. Every code below sets R, G, and B to the same 8-bit value.

Dark steps deliberately merged

Original: six different RGB codes

0
8
16
24
32
40

Authored merge: input β†’ output code

0β†’ 0
8β†’ 0
16β†’ 0
24β†’ 24
32β†’ 32
40β†’ 40

Three different input codes now use the same black output. Their boundaries disappear because the page deliberately removed the differences.

Bright steps deliberately merged

Original: six different RGB codes

215
223
231
239
247
255

Authored merge: input β†’ output code

215β†’ 215
223β†’ 223
231β†’ 231
239β†’ 255
247β†’ 255
255β†’ 255

The last three input codes now use the same white output. A white endpoint alone is not clipping; losing distinctions between different inputs is the point of this example.

During the fullscreen check, the page sends different codes without this authored merge. If adjacent steps look alike, record their labels and repeat one setting change. Appearance alone does not identify which stage hid the difference.

What to compare in your run

Shadow detail: Separation of dark steps
Highlight detail: Separation of bright steps
Banding: Breaks in smooth transitions
Numeric ratio: Not measured

🎨 Pattern Types

  • ● Gradients: Basic 0-100% transitions
  • ● Split Patterns: Complex multi-section tests
  • ● Fine Steps: Closely spaced browser values
  • ● Directional: Horizontal and vertical

Controlled rechecks

  • β€’ Repeat under the same room light before comparing settings.
  • β€’ Change display brightness once, then rerun the same patterns.
  • β€’ Record the operating-system and GPU output mode.
  • β€’ Keep SDR and HDR observations separate.

The page does not calculate a contrast ratio.

Choose a recheck from the steps that merged

The labels are browser RGB code-value percentages, not measured screen brightness. You can stop after a useful dark and bright comparison; cycling all 20 layouts does not improve the display or validate a result.

The dark and bright steps I checked remained distinguishable.
Return to a familiar photo or video and check that its shadows and highlights still look useful. Keep the current settings as your comparison baseline.
Some dark steps merged together.
Use the fine 0–8% pattern and record the first distinguishable label. Compare one display black-level or shadow setting, then restore it; if the whole picture is affected, check the GPU and display range settings together.
Some bright steps merged together.
Use the fine 92–100% pattern and record the last distinguishable label. Compare one contrast or picture preset change and restore the baseline before trying another.
Both dark and bright steps merged together.
Record both boundaries on a fine split pattern. Recheck with a familiar neutral picture preset, then verify the output-range pairing for this input before adjusting several controls.
Step separation was not assessed / I am not sure.
Choose one fine split pattern and compare adjacent dark and bright labels without changing settings. It is useful to record uncertainty instead of guessing a boundary.

Background

Black crush, white clipping, and contrast

A well-set display shows the difference between nearly black and black, and between nearly white and white. When those near-black or near-white steps merge, detail disappears: shadows in a film turn into flat black blobs, or clouds lose their texture. The step patterns on this page show where your screen starts to merge them, and the most common causes are settings you can change.

Black crush and raised blacks

Black crush means the darkest steps all look identical to pure black. Common causes are a gamma setting that is too high, a dynamic contrast or eco mode, or the wrong RGB range. The opposite problem is raised blacks. Black looks dark gray, the image looks washed out, and every step is visible but nothing is truly black. That is often caused by a brightness or black-level setting that is too high, or again by an RGB range mismatch.

Gaming presets such as Black Equalizer, Dark Boost, or Shadow Boost deliberately brighten dark steps so enemies are easier to see in shadows. That is useful in some games but makes films look gray.

The RGB range mismatch

Computer graphics use full range, where black is code 0 and white is 255. Video and TV signals traditionally use limited range, where black is 16 and white is 235. When the source and the display disagree, the picture breaks in a predictable way.

If a PC sends limited range to a display expecting full range, black arrives as 16, so blacks look gray and whites look dim. If a PC sends full range to a display expecting limited range, everything below 16 becomes black and everything above 235 becomes white, so you get crushed shadows and clipped highlights. This happens most often over HDMI, because many graphics drivers default to limited range when they detect a TV-style resolution.

  • NVIDIA: Control Panel β€Ί Display β€Ί Change resolution β€Ί Output dynamic range.
  • AMD: AMD Software β€Ί Settings β€Ί Display β€Ί Pixel Format (Full RGB 4:4:4 or Limited RGB).
  • Intel: Intel Graphics Software β€Ί Display β€Ί Quantization Range (older systems: Graphics Command Center β€Ί Display β€Ί General).
  • Monitor or TV: look for HDMI Black Level, RGB Range, or Black Level set to Low/High or Limited/Full.
  • Consoles: PlayStation’s RGB Range and Xbox’s PC RGB versus Standard color space setting.

White clipping

Clipping at the bright end usually comes from a contrast setting that is too high, an over-aggressive dynamic contrast mode, or the full-to-limited mismatch above. Lower the contrast control until the brightest steps separate again, then check that white still looks clean and not gray.

What contrast ratio means

Contrast ratio is the luminance of white divided by the luminance of black. LCD panels cannot fully block their backlight, so black is never zero. OLED pixels switch off completely, so their black level is effectively zero in a dark room. Local dimming on Mini-LED displays raises the effective contrast by dimming the backlight behind dark areas.

Typical native contrast by panel type (approximate)
Panel typeTypical native contrastBlack level in a dark room
IPS LCDaround 1,000:1Dark gray, often with glow in the corners
VA LCDaround 3,000:1 or moreDeeper, can look uneven off-axis
TN LCDaround 1,000:1Gray, shifts strongly with angle
Mini-LED (local dimming)much higher, depends on zonesDeep, with possible blooming
OLEDeffectively infiniteTrue black

Common questions

Which of the near-black steps should I be able to see?
On a correctly set display in a dim room, you should be able to separate most of the darkest steps from pure black. In a bright room, reflections hide the darkest steps on any screen, so test in the lighting you normally use.
Should I raise brightness to see shadow detail?
Only if blacks are crushed. On TVs, the Brightness control usually sets the black level, and raising it too far turns blacks gray. On most PC monitors, Brightness controls the backlight and changes the whole image.
Why does my screen look washed out only over HDMI?
That is the classic sign of a limited-range signal shown as full range. Set the graphics driver to full range, or set the display to expect limited range, so that both sides match.

How accurate is this test?

What it shows reliably

  • Black and white clipping, shadow and highlight detail, and gradient separation.

What needs a measuring instrument

  • A numeric contrast ratio is white luminance divided by black luminance, both read with a colorimeter.

Reading your result

  • Record the darkest and brightest steps you can distinguish without changing settings.
  • Exact contrast and luminance measurements require a calibrated colorimeter or luminance meter.
Recommended setup and sources

Recommended setup

  1. Use a stable display mode and allow the display to warm up.
  2. Check the patterns in the room lighting you normally use.

Sources

Methodology reviewed: